Saturday, January 9, 2010

Mochima National Park -> Cumana -> Caracas

Since we updated last, a lot has happened.

We left off in Puerto La Cruz, a port city with a pretty beach you wouldn't want to swim in (and we didn't) and lots of Schwarma restaurants. We stayed less than 24 hours, before heading up to Mochima National Park, a long park covering many islands, beach towns, lagoons, etc. Unfortunately the beaches in the park are very crowded during the winter holidays (that end by the second week in January).

We stayed in Playa Colorada (Beach Colorada) for the first three days in the park. Not exactly a town, more like a built up area next to the beach where people live, and there are a few restaurants. When we arrived, the beach was obscenely crowded, like counting numbers of children per square meter crowded. One of the biggest problems with the crowds was the quantity of trash that accumulates from even one day of Venezuelan vacationing. So, we didn't spend too much time at the beach. However, on the second day we were there we kayaked to three islands with a guide and went snorkeling! The more isolated islands were truly beautiful, and the water was perfectly clear. It was Miriam's first time snorkeling, so Gabe got to teach her how and impressed Gabe greatly by jumping right in and not panicing due to the low levels of water over the coral that we had to swim over. We had a lot of fun, even though Miriam got a painful sunburn on the back of her legs.

While in Playa Colorada, we stayed at a place that hosts mostly European young adults (18-30s) to learn Spanish, travel through Venezuela, and do some community service. It had a really relaxed vibe, and we enjoyed chatting and getting to know the people who were staying there.

After Playa Colorada, we went to Santa Fe, a crummy town with a beautiful beach. We stayed at a posada directly on the beach, we literally walked out the front door into sand, and then 20 feet later, beautiful blue water. The posada was situated at a point with beaches on both sides and mountains in the distance. In the posada, we stayed in hammocks on the open-air third floor (no mosquito nets, unfortunately), which had a great breeze and an even better view.

We only stayed in Santa Fe one night, as it wasn't the safest place in the world, and headed out of Mochima park for Cumana, the closest major city.

Although Cumana is the capital of Sucre State, one of the poorest states in Venezuela, we really enjoyed the atmosphere of the city. The people were warm and friendly and people enjoyed themselves by meeting together in the many plazas of the city.

At this point, we pretty much ran out of money. So we got by on the minimum of normal bread and fried cheesy bread. Acquiring money in local currency without exchanging cash on the black market is undesirable (because you get less than one third of what you should be getting) and difficult to do. We didn't know it was going to be hard to get cash from banks with the official exchange rate after we ran out of cash, however it was. Only after trying ATMs at the three banks, and dealing with management at two banks, did we finally get enough money to finish the trip.

An interesting aspect of our time in Cumana was the fact that our posada (chosen for its low price) was not exactly a wholesome establishment. When we asked for a room, they replied "for how long", so we had to specify that we did in fact want a room to sleep in, instead of other services. The people were nice, so it didn't bother us, but we won't choose similar establishments in the future.

We went to a castle. :)

After a day and a half in Cumana, we took a night bus to Caracas to avoid having to pay for another hotel room. We arrived fairly early in the morning, so we waited an hour or so at the bus station, until the city buses started up. We dropped off our bags at the posada we stayed at in Caracas our first night, so we wouldn't have to carry our backpacks around all day and attract unwanted attention.

Our day in Caracas, our last day in Venezuela, we spent walking around the different parts of the city center. We went to the Caracas Museum of Contemporary Art, which we were both impressed with, especially their extensive Picasso exhibit. We also rode up and down the teleferico, the cable car that climbs above the city to a nearby mountain, from which you can see impressive panoramas of the city (where we by chance met up with the Latvian tourists that we met on the Angel Falls tour). Later, we went to the botanical gardens, which we weren't so impressed with, but were a nice break of the hustle and bustle of such a large and busy city.

In the afternoon we took the last Saturday shuttle bus to the airport to await our early morning flight back to the States! Here we are typing at an internet cafe in the airport.

Factoids:

Number of days in Venezuela: 27

Number of Americans seen: 3

Number of Westerners seen: 100+

Number of painful sunburns: 7

Number of Arepas eaten: 30+

Number of Empanadas eaten: possibly three digits??

Number of times Gabe or Miriam exclamed "GUESS WHAT, we're in VENEZUELA!": about once a day

Friday, January 8, 2010

Canaima and Angel Falls Pictures!

We start off our Angel Falls Adventure by flying from Ciudad Bolivar to Canaima...

Our mini plane.


First view of a tepui, table-top mountains that are remnants of the pre-Cambian age.


View of Canaima from the plane.


Waterfall in Canaima, that we walked behind. Super cool!


Savannah which we hiked across on our way to Angel Falls.

The boats we travelled in, as seen during one of our breaks.


Where the water was too low, the guys had to get out and push the boat! There is Gabe at the front in the yellow shirt.

ANGEL FALLS! Tallest waterfall in the world, oo rah.
Miriam in the bottom section of the waterfall, where the water from Angel Falls pools.


View looking out from Angel Falls.

View of Angel Falls from our boats the next morning, returning to Canaima at 6ish AM.


Back in Canaima, a Nativity scene (featuring Santa) left over from Christmas.


The dark color of the water, indicating that it is a black river, results from a low organic decomposition caused by poor nutrient levels in the soils. The mosquitos, other insects, and alligators cannot survive in these waters, so yay for us.
Beach in Canaima. Amazing!

Waterfalls at the Canaima beach at night.

At another lagoon, that we arrived at by boat/hike.

Everything Bolivar

Something that grabbed our attention here in Venezuela is the prevalence of the national figure and founder, Simon Bolivar, everywhere in the country.

So here is a list of everything Bolivar:
  • The currency is the Bolivar fuerte (the strong Bolivar, as it changed from just the Bolivar in 2007)
  • There is a province called Bolivar
  • There is a city called Ciudad Bolivar (Ciudad means city)
  • There is a Plaza Bolizar in EVERY city and EVERY town, no matter how small, with some shady trees and a statue of Bolivar (whether on a horse or just a bust).
  • Drawings of Bolivar are one of the most popular things to graffitti onto city walls.
  • The image on the 100 bill is of Bolivar.
  • The tallest mountain in the country is Pico Bolivar
  • The name of the main Avenue in most cities is some form of Simon Bolivar or El Libertador (The Liberator, another way of referring to him).
  • And many more...

So these are some pictures from Ciudad Bolivar, where we spent a few days.

The old center in Ciudad Bolivar is filled with houses painted beautiful bright colors. This also shows the edge of the city's Plaza Bolivar which also contains 5 statues that symbolize the countrys that Bolivar made independent (Venezuela, Colombia, Peru, Ecuador, and Granada).

The Cathedral.

The Orinoco River with a bridge, which until recently was the only bridge that crossed this river which is so long, it cuts the country in half.

A costume used in one of the city's festivals (as shown on the wall in our posada), it is called the Diablo Blanco (aka The White Devil or as Gabe calls it The Thing to Scare Little Children).


Where we stayed the second night, outside of the city.

Merida Pictures

In and Around Merida (the city where we stayed in the Andes), not exactly chronological.
Early morning view from the streets of Merida. Basically, anywhere in the city you can turn around and see gorgeous mountain views = sweet.
View from the back of our posada (hotel).
Heladeria Coromoto, Guinness book of World Records holder for most ice cream flavors. This wall lists them all. Delicious (most of the time, probably not the garlic flavored one)!
Our Christmas morning feast, consisting of traditional sweets, cake, crema andina (traditional liqeur), fruit, honey (with lots of herbs and pollen in it), and other things...

Traditional Andean drinks we had in the mountains. The left is Calentado, a hot Andean drink with Anise-flavored spirit, milk, herbs, and brown sugar. It was very very strong. The right is hot toddy, basically a rich hot chocolate drink.
Prep for PARAGLIDING on Christmas! One of Miriam's favorite parts was that the suits we had to wear made us look like bugs (the suit formed a seat for us while we were in the air). So, Gabe acted the part briefly.
If you look carefully, you can see Gabe paragliding in the background.
Miriam paragliding as the sun set.
Our Epic hike to Pico el Aguila (Eagle Peak, 4118 m or 2.55 miles)
A mountain lagoon way high up on the mountainside.
A Venezuelan Santa!
Lagoon Mucubaji, 5km (as the bird flys) from the peak. This picture would not have been possible 30 min later, as a large cloud came by, and shrouded everything in mist.